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Border and Immigration Control: how it works in India — first-hand

From real experience

ruleForeigners renting accommodation in India frequently encounter landlords who prefer not to formalize contracts with foreign passports, often due to a desire to avoid hassle, responsibility, and taxes.
They may suggest registering the rental under a local friend's ID. However, official notarized rental agreements for foreigners are possible. A new law from 2025 places the responsibility of registration (via a C-form) on the tourist, not just the landlord. Border control may question tourists about their accommodation upon departure if no C-form registration is found. Landlords failing to register tenants face fines (e.g., 10,000 INR). It is advisable for tenants to request a copy of their C-form from the landlord as proof of registration, even though the information should be in the FRRO database.
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riskWhen entering India, immigration officers may ask for proof of onward travel (return ticket).
While not always checked, there are instances where travelers have been denied boarding or entry without it. Some travelers report being asked for it at the point of entry, particularly in destinations like Bali. To mitigate this risk, consider booking a refundable or hold ticket, or using a booking service that provides tickets for immigration purposes (typically around $16 USD). This is a precaution, as the strictness of this check can vary.
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how-toIf you obtain a new passport while holding a valid Indian e-visa issued on your old passport, you should carry both the old (invalid/cancelled) and new passports when crossing the border.
Indian immigration authorities typically accept both documents together to verify the visa. If the old passport was fully surrendered or lost, you may need to apply for a new visa, as e-visas are strictly linked to the passport number used during the application.
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how-toIf a traveler finds no entry stamp in their passport upon arrival in India, they should: 1) Thoroughly check all pages of the passport, as the stamp might be placed out of order or near the end.
2) If missing, approach the immigration desk at the airport immediately. Officials will verify the entry status in their database. It is common practice for them to confirm the entry orally without necessarily adding a missing stamp if the system shows the entry as valid.
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ruleFor tourist visas in India, the rule is generally a maximum stay of 90 days per entry, with a limit of 180 days per calendar year.
e-Tourist visas are valid for 30 days and are often free for certain nationalities, making them a better choice for layovers than transit visas. Business visas have stricter requirements, including proof of a legitimate business relationship, invitation letters from both sides, and sometimes a business card (often requested at immigration).
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riskTransiting in India without a visa does not guarantee entry.
If entry is denied at passport control, passengers are held in the transit zone. While standard procedure is deportation to the country of origin, there have been rare instances where authorities allowed passengers to purchase tickets to a third country. This is highly discretionary and depends on negotiation. Passports are often confiscated by security and returned only at the boarding gate.
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ruleKashmir requires mandatory registration for foreign tourists at hotels.
Checkpoints between Srinagar and Leh require filling out forms at every post. The local attitude toward tourists is highly commercialized ('no money, no honey' mentality), and pickpocketing is common in the Old City of Srinagar. Cultural highlights include boat houses on Dal Lake and historic wooden mosques.
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tipTransit through India, especially if involving a change of terminals, requires a visa.
While India offers a free one-month tourist visa for Russian citizens, it must be obtained in advance. The official Indian visa application website is reportedly difficult to navigate; using a facilitator service for approximately 1500 RUB is an option if direct application proves too challenging.
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tipTravelers entering India from nearby countries (like Sri Lanka) are often asked for proof of onward travel by airlines.
If an onward ticket has not been purchased, travelers use temporary flight reservation services to fulfill check-in requirements.
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